Letters from the Bali (Final Episode – Volume 5)

Scarlett's Letters with Guest Roving Reporter, Scarlett Bailes

I finally reached the last destination on my itinerary, Bali. This is an island full of beautiful people that live for their gods. Ceremonies take place all over this island several times a day, some are for show but most of them are deeply sacred to the Balinese people. Wanting to experience all the mysticism I had been reading about I headed for the spiritual hub of Bali, Ubud.

Ubud is a wonderland of musical and dance performances that showcase the traditions and worship of their many gods. I settled into a beautiful little inn called Matahari Cottages that really set the tone for my stay in Ubud. Matahari consists of eight themed rooms, I chose the Batavian princess cottage that was decorated to make anyone feel like royalty.

Every morning a breakfast of fresh fruits, tea and eggs benedict was served to me in bed or on my veranda and every afternoon the guest joined for high tea that was an over the top assortment of sandwiches, coffee, cakes, pastries and Turkish delight all served on beautiful silver. The staff would wash your hands with rose water and dry them with white silk. This place alone was so peaceful and also centrally located to everything I wanted to see here.

The first performance I went to see was at the Ubud Water Palace. Each dance tells a story by the graceful movements of the performers, one told of a warrior preparing for battle,going from quiet observation to readiness for battle while another told of a lion with movements that exhibited strength, dominance and power as the king of the jungle guards his domain. The following day I attended a shadow puppet performance that was unlike anything I had ever seen. The puppets had been fashioned out of leather and they were placed behind a curtain illuminated by a candle, all the puppets were operated by a single puppeteer and a helper who would hand him the puppets as needed. Every performance I attended did hold a bit of the magic I had sought out in this peaceful paradise.

After Ubud I packed my things and headed to Seminyak, a town on the coast near Kuta, the party area. Seminyak didn’t have a lot to offer outside of shopping but I did happen upon a truly special cremation ceremony.

Cremations typically take place once a year as it costs so much to perform one, but this was an auspicious day for the ceremony so two people of higher society were cremated on this day. I had been walking the streets in Seminyak when I saw a long procession of people celebrating and carrying two golden caskets. I followed the group into a field were a roaring fire was placed in the center and I found a seat in the grass, from here I watched as the two bodies were raised into the flames and covered with a metal sheet, three family members stoked the coals to keep a bit of the body intact as everyone danced and sang to help celebrate the bodies release of the soul as well as to confuse any evil spirits that surrounded the person while they were on earth. It was exactly what I needed as it allowed me to have peace with my loss as well.

My final day in Bali I went dive walking at the bottom of the sea and saw so many beautiful fishes as well as some gorgeous corals; afterward, I saw the most gorgeous sunset in all of Asia, I sat on the beach relaxing as the sun dipped into the Indian Ocean. My moment of tranquility was interrupted by the sound of a chainsaw; I turned around to see people bungee jumping with motorcycles and decided it was time to go.

My return flight was a bit of a nightmare with all the delays and the culture shock of returning back to western society but I finally made it back to my little island, Tybee at last. One of the greatest things about travelling is coming home…especially when your home is Tybee. Not many things change here so it makes it pretty easy to get back into your routine. I’m back at work now and have plenty more stories to tell as well as a heap of photos to share so swing by Gaynas and I’ll tell you all about them.

Until the next trip…
Your Roving Reporter – Signing Off,

Scarlett

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Letter from the Philippines

Immediately on arrival I was greeted by warm people with happy grins. They use the term bahala-na; meaning whatever-will–be-will-be, and its apparent everywhere. First you must consider the adversities this country has faced even over the last year; it began with the terrible typhoon season that claimed so many lives followed by the volcano eruption that wiped out towns and villages. Even with this, you would never know by the general manner of the people, that they had ever known any hardships. All over the country people are just beaming with this bahala-na attitude, and its wearing off on me for sure.

I only had a night in Manila, so I did a little shopping and relaxed in my room reading my guide book, studying a language guide and examining maps. The next morning I woke up a little late and had to rush to the airport, on my way there I hit a major traffic jam and when I finally arrived at the airport entrance I was left with only 12 minutes till my flight took off, and to my astonishment ,they actually  let me board. It was a short and beautiful trip to the island of Palawan. This is where I would be spending all my time in the Philippines. The orphanage I am working at is in Puerto Princessa, the capital of this gorgeous paradise. As soon as I got to the airport, the woman in charge of my program greeted me along with three of the children I would have the pleasure of spending my holiday with, and it seemed as if they were as excited as I was. All of them were showing off for me with dancing and tricks and a million and one questions. I couldn’t wait to get started. My original placement called for an English teacher but I quickly realized that these kids needed no help in that department, which made my job easy and a lot more fun. We spend the days playing games, reading stories and doing arts and crafts. My girls are
incredibly sweet and my boys are like most 6-8 yr old boys, monsters…I have developed a relationship with all of them though and adore each and every one. I already know how difficult it is going to be to leave them. All but two of the children here lost their families this year in the typhoons and each of them has a heart breaking story of how they survived while their families perished. Still they are some of the happiest and most boisterous children I’ve ever encountered.

When away from the orphanage I get to tour the island. My first trip took me via motorbike to Nagtabon Beach. Although the terrifying ride here had me wanting to give up on the search for this elusive stretch of sand, it was well worth it once I got my feet in the ocean.  There is crystal clear water as far as you can see and not a soul to disturb you. Although beautiful, there is no place to stay here so it is for day trippers only.

I headed back to Puerto Princessa and made arrangements to continue north the next day. With my bag on my back I thumbed down a jeepney and made a three hour journey to Port Barton, a low- key tourist haunt with fuchsia sunsets and warm blue water.  I was able to relax here a couple days before returning to work and it did me wonders. My neighbors were great; we had bonfires nightly and cooked whatever the Swedish guys had caught during the day, eating in a group while locals played the flamenco guitar softly in the distance. I’m sure that sounds strange so I will explain.

When I first arrived in the Philippines I was having difficulty placing myself as being in Asia at all. This country was under Spanish rule for almost five hundred years and the influence is everywhere; from city names like El Nido, Padre Burgos..  Etc…to people’s names such as Jose, Juan and Carlos…even in the food, music and language the Spanish is ubiquitous.  It certainly feels more like Central America to me than Asia.

My next trip first took me to Tay Tay where I only spent one evening. Tay Tay is the former capital and I had heard rumors of Dugong sightings, a magnificent animal that spawned the legend of mermaids centuries ago, however, just as if I had been chasing the mermaid itself, the creature eluded me. To pass my time I checked out the town relics: Santa Isabel Fort and Santa Monica Church, both are enclosed with large bricks cut from the corals and I’m fairly certain they both date back to the mid 1600’s. Although very pretty, the town itself was not all that impressive so I geared up for the next day.

My Final stop was El Nido, gateway to the Bacuit Archipelago.  El Nido itself is such a quaint town, sitting at the entrance to what might be the most beautiful place in the world. I immediately booked some island hopping trips and set off into the splendor of the archipelago. It truly is as if Mother Nature just went into frenzy here and gave this area everything she had to offer. Similar to Halong Bay, limestone formations jet out of the water, only here, instead of the cold and milky green waters of Halong, these limestone islands are surrounded by warm, crystal clear, blue waters.

Jumping off the boat into this wonderland is such an experience and one I will always treasure.  I snorkeled through Small and Big lagoon on Miniloc Island, had lunch on a secret beach, swam with harmless jellyfish in the bay, climbed Homer Simpson Island and pitched a tent for the evening on Seven Commandos Beach. On the beach that evening, after building a massive fire, I watched more falling stars than I’ve ever seen anywhere on this amazing planet and followed it up with swimming through one of the highest concentrations of bioluminescence I’ve ever witnessed. All around me the world was sparkling and I know I’ll hold onto this place forever.

I headed back to Puerto Princessa and said my teary eyed goodbyes to the children and headed for the local airport, it has been a remarkable experience on this fabulous island and it will always be special to me.

Though it is very hard to leave here I’m on my way to Bali!!! So…things aren’t all that bad.

Soon, I’ll be home on Tybee …

Scarlett

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by Guest Writer, Scarlett Bailes

“Letters from Vietnam”
(Volume 3)

Scarlett Bailes

Traveling Vietnam has been a rewarding experience. The people here are a little less friendly than have been in my other travels but I have come upon a few small towns greeted by smiling faces and all the warmth that would be expected of a tiny village.

I began my journey through Vietnam in Hanoi, a bustling city far north, full of life, vivid colors, the roar of motorbikes and the humming of neon signs. The streets are heavy with food stalls and lively markets selling everything from fabric to dog parts.

I did some necessary shopping here and began eating my way through town…starting with goat udders, as mentioned in my last letter, then moved on to pigeon, duck embryo, snake wine and chicken feet, once satisfying the epicurious side of me I turned to more traditional dishes…mainly…Pho bo, this has become my favorite food, whether it be for breakfast, lunch or dinner, just a simple noodle dish garnished with basil, sprouts, lime, chili and thinly sliced beef. Anyways…I am eating normal again.

After pounding the streets of Hanoi I was in dire need of a more tranquil environment so I booked a junk boat to take me through Halong Bay. Immediately I could see why this place has been sacred to so many generations. Limestone formations jet out of the emerald green waters in every direction making for one of the most beautiful and serene surroundings I have ever witnessed. All I could hear was the sails in the wind and the occasional splash of water against the side of the junk cruiser. The only thing that could have made this place any nicer would have been perhaps a bit of warm weather and less wind. I spent my last day in Halong Bay kayaking and visiting some incredible caves.

After Halong Bay I was dropped back in Hanoi and booked a bus that would take me south. My first stop was Hue, this town was just brimming with history so I tried to get a bit of it in and visit some of the larger landmarks. I visited The Citadel, The Imperial Closure and The Forbidden Purple City, where I took part in a few forbidden activities.

First I snuck over an enclosure and around a gate to visit this beautiful bull elephant and then I snuck in the palace and tried on all the imperial clothing, it was stunning, and I was even able to get a few pictures before I got caught!

I had another day in Hue so I took a city bus to the DMZ where I was able to see some incredible tunnels that were built during the war as well as the Rock Pile and a few old military bases and camps. Some of the mountain tops here are barren, although once covered in dense vegetation, from the use of Napalm and Agent Orange, standing there now, listening to the birds and wind it’s hard to imagine that only a few short decades ago so many lives were lost here.

That evening I made my way to a town called Hoi An and wished I hadn’t. This town is serious trouble for any budget traveler, especially one who likes clothes. For a mile on both sides you are surrounded by expert tailors, you might be able to pass the first few without looking, but eventually you will concede. I bought dresses, shirts and even a beautiful pair of custom leather boots.

Once I got my shopping fix I was able to actually enjoy this quaint little city. Cobblestone streets wind through the town and the silk lanterns hung everywhere reflected a warm light against the roads then dampened by the steady afternoon drizzle. The main street leads to a nice river adorned with a beautiful covered bridge, a nice old man that looked like Mr. Miagi gave me a row boat ride for an hour for about 20 cent. This to me was the most charming town in Vietnam.

My next stop was Nha Trang, a beach town at last! I spent the first couple of hours lying lazily on the beach trying to get back the tan I had lost and then treated myself to a mineral mud bath, followed by a hot mineral soak and finally a hot mineral waterfall all leaving me super soft. The next morning I booked a trip to the nearby islands and the freak shows they offered. First was a show where the dressed some goats as newlyweds and had them pulled around by Dalmatians with a monkey for the driver. Then I got to ride an ostrich, which was a load of fun. Afterwards I went to Monkey Island where a bear in a tutu jumped rope and after all the excitement I saw the monkeys of the island. They were everywhere, in the trees, on the signs, to your left and right on the roads, all a little reminiscent of “The Birds” by Alfred Hitchcock, I was happy to leave this place.

I boarded my bus once again to head further south, My next stop was Mui Ne, I only had a day here so I used it up sledding down the giant red sand dunes, which in the rain, looked just like a giant pile of Georgia red clay. It was a lot of fun outside of the children who were in fact eager salesman and pick pockets. I paid them what I felt was fair for the use of their sleds and then headed back to the bus for a long trip to Saigon.

Saigon, not unlike Hanoi, was a busy city scene. The streets were packed and after all the peace I found in the other towns this was a little unsettling, still, it was just a jumping off point to get to the mighty Mekong Delta so I knew I wouldn’t have to endure too much of it. Just as in Hanoi, the street vendors constantly harass you…sunglasses? massage? pedicure? NO !NO !NO!

Once off the main streets, that are trimmed with Prada and Gucci shops, and down the alley ways you can still find old Saigon alive and well; Women tending to their elders, children playing, locals cooking food for their families and the constant hum of sewing machines, This was more of what I had envisioned.

Only a few hours up the road was the Mekong and it was exactly as I had hoped, floating markets were everywhere and the villages were all busy making whatever product they specialized in. I stopped in at one who made rice paper, rice wine , coconut candy and Honey…all delicious I would like to add. After sampling the local goods I went further up the river for lunch, it was almost an eerie kind of silence on the water, I half expected Colonel Kurtz to jump out at any minute , but it stayed peaceful and so did I. After my trip to the Mekong I went back to Hanoi and back to my terrible rat infested hostile where loud Europeans blasted techno till 5 am, the next day however I was treated by my boyfriend, on the other side of the world ,to a super posh night at a very exclusive hotel…I was able to bathe with warm water and actually really sleep for the first time in a month…thank you again baby!

The following morning I spent a few hours by the pool and then booked another leg of my trip to Rach Gia by bus and continuing by boat to Phu Quoc. This island is hands down the best spot in all of Vietnam. It’s a small, quiet island, surrounded by crystal blue water and white sandy beaches. It’s incredibly quiet and all the lodging in my area consist of small thatched bungalows, with hammocks outside and best of all they are right on the water. I’m a little sad I did not find this oasis earlier on in my trip but I suppose I would not appreciate it as much otherwise. So here I sit, with nothing but the sound of crickets and the ocean at my door, planning my next adventure and writing home. I can’t wait to see all of you again. I’ll write you from the Philippines.

XOXO
Scarlett

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Letters from Sri Lanka
by Guest Writer, Scarlett Bailes

Roving Reporter/Scarlett’s Letters
Roving Reporter Lauri Kinkel just returned from a trip to Sri Lanka over New Year’s where she visited friend Scarlett Bailes who formerly worked at Gayna’s Pub on Tybee. Scarlett’s been in Sri Lanka for the past four months seeing the sites and writing letters to share with our readers. The first volume was published after she arrived in Sri Lanka and appears in our December 2009 printed edition. The second volume which was printed in the January 2010 edition, was written during and after Lauri and mutual friend Will Coley visited Scarlett over Christmas break – Lauri says it was the trip of a lifetime.
The third volume will publish in February’s printed edition and also online… so stay tuned.

I finally re-acclimatized to Sri Lanka and traveling itself so I was able to leave the familiar surroundings of Hikkaduwa and actually go try some new things. I first hopped along the coast staying in the sun and then made my way north to the mountains.

Once there I decided climb Adams peak which I can firmly say that it was one of the best and worst things I have ever done in my life. Adams Peak, also called Sri Pada, is at the highest elevation in the country and every year a pilgrimage to the top is made by almost everyone in the country. Some believe that it is the first place Adam stepped foot after being cast from the Garden of Eden, others say it was Buddha that left his footprint at the peak, some simply believe it is where butterflies go to die….whichever you believe it is almost a rite of passage forSinhalese, Tamils, Buddhist, Hindus and Christians alike.

The idea of it seemed simple enough but when I woke up at 2:30 that morning, which is when most start the climb, the cold and rainy weather almost deterred me. The path is illuminated during pilgrimage season and as I rounded the corner to the start of the trek, all I could see for miles is steep muddy stairs off all heights. I decided to give it a goanyways since eighty year old women were hobbling up the steps, singing their way to the peak; and I just continued to set small goals for myself…ten more steps and then you can take a break…but after hours of this I looked up and there…in the distance…far far away was my goal, I wanted to give up so badly but I had come too far to turn around.  Eventually I made it up that mountain and I rang the bell, said a prayer over the footprint that had been covered with white linens and decided to get a head start on the hundreds that were up there and started my descent; Bad idea.  After an hour or so I realized that still nobody had come down the mountain and at that point I looked around and noticed that nothing looked familiar. I had gone down the wrong way, nobody told me there was more than one…

I looked back at the peak and at this point my legs were jello and I was walking a bit like Elvis and knew I could not make it back up, so I came up with the clever idea to just cut across the side of the mountain by myself and eventually I would find my way, which I did, about two hours of being lost in the woods later.

I was so happy to see the hoards of people again. As a reward for climbing the mountain I received the best present ever, the following morning Will and Lauri  arrived. They had come all the way to the other side of the world just to see me and I was thrilled. I had so much I wanted to show them and in such a short amount of time. I decided the best thing to do would be going to see some of the hill country first and then end our trip on the coast. So I swept them away from the airport and into Kandy.

We first stopped along the way at Pinnewalla Elephant Orphanage and made it just in time for the babies bottle feeding followed by the bathing time at the river, they were so sweet and I think the tusker remembered me from years ago. We then dropped our bags atHelga’s Folly, the most unique hotel in the world, where the halls are filled with wax dripping candelabras, ghostly images and a gramophone that plays EdithPiaf for no one, and headed to the Temple of the Tooth.

It is said that Buddha’s tooth was brought here by being snuck into the country inside the strands of a princess’s hair. It’s a bit more like a palace than a temple but while inside you can definitely feel that it is a spiritual place.

We all received prayer bracelets that a monk blessed and tied on our wrist while chanting something in Sinhala, and I knew right then that Will and Lauri felt what I do when I am in this country, it’s almost a peace that rolls over your entire body and you know it’s special. Afterwards we returned for dinner at Helga’s and went for a heart racing spin in a tuk tuk down the mountainsides, which was much more like a rollercoaster than a taxi.

The next morning we had tea on our balcony which turned into a wild monkey show when I made the mistake of offering a simple teaspoon of sugar to one. Soon they had taken over the whole tray and were licking antique silver dishes and fighting with each other, at one point the largest of the males decided to just walk in our room and have a look. Luckily, Will was there – the monkey stared him up and down as if he was sizing him up, then exited without any real problems.

We left that day and went into Nuwara Eliya which is tea country and just full of breathtaking views – steep tea fields sweep all the way down the sides of the mountains giving it a lush tropical look, almost like theNepali coastlines of Hawaii. We had a slumber party here after going to a really bazaar karaoke bar where the hottest numbers were all Lionel Ritchie.

Eventually we made it to the beaches of Mirissa; and this is where we spent all our time relaxing under palm trees with blue waters lapping on the shore with a coconut in hand, making new friends with the warm and friendly locals. It was good to spend some time on a beach that was not Hikkaduwa …same same but different. New Years was spent here and although it was a bit quiet we had a great time.  So nice to share it with people I love. So much nicer than Christmas when I got a bit lonely, although the cards from Dick and Ruth that everyone signed have helped me so much. Thanks again for that, guys!

Well, I am off to rest as I have just arrived in Vietnam and finished a piping hot bowl of ‘goat udders,’ which were surprisingly …delicious. I will write again soon.

I miss y’all much,
Scarlett

Letters from Sri Lanka
by Guest Writer, Scarlett Bailes

Roving Reporter/Scarlett’s Letters
Roving Reporter Lauri Kinkel just returned from a trip to Sri Lanka over New Year’s where she visited friend Scarlett Bailes who formerly worked at Gayna’s Pub on Tybee. Scarlett’s been in Sri Lanka for the past four months seeing the sites and writing letters to share with our readers. The first volume was published after she arrived in Sri Lanka and appears in our December 2009 printed edition. The second volume which was printed in the January 2010 edition, was written during and after Lauri and mutual friend Will Coley visited Scarlett over Christmas break – Lauri says it was the trip of a lifetime.
The third volume will publish in February’s printed edition and also online… so stay tuned.

November 17 at 2:02pm:

After days of navigating through airports, I finally arrived at my destination: Sri Lanka, island of jewels.

Just as before, upon arrival, my senses were overloaded by the beautiful kaleidoscope that is this island. The smells of the street vendors, the colors of the fabrics hanging in the store fronts, the sounds of people chattering in Sinhalese, all against the lull of the ocean crashing into the shore and the gentle swaying of the massive coconut palms. This is my paradise.

Every morning I begin with a perfect cup of Ceylon tea while gazing out at the crystal blue waters of the Indian Ocean. I am spending the bulk of my time in Hikkaduwa, a cozy little beach town I discovered on my last trip here. This little slice of utopia is found on the western coast just a few short hours south of the bustling streets of Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital.

Here in Hikkaduwa, the lush green landscape of the nearby rainforest seems to spill out onto the shore. Other than this town’s obvious natural beauty, it has plenty more to boast. For any water lover, this could easily be heaven. The snorkeling is phenomenal; even in the small holes where you might be in as little as waist deep water, you will find an amazing variety of fishes and other and other sea creatures, from sea turtles to Moray eels and even Lionfish, it’s amazing. Also here is endless diving, beautiful surf breaks, kayaking and even kite boarding, which I’m lucky enough to have a go at soon, thanks to my wonderful host –Mads.

Besides water sports, this place is a haven for seafood lovers and any foodie. Daily you will see the local fisherman and in the morning and early afternoons you have the opportunity to buy these amazing catches from them and any restaurant will be more than happy to prepare it to your liking. Whether it be a huge Snapper or a jumbo prawn, they will go from ocean to plate in roughly thirty minutes, even better is that you will get your entrée, beverage and a few sides of fresh vegetables for about 500 rupees, that’s about $4.50 US! The rice and curry here is fabulous as well, although I am still slowly acclimating to the spices (and eating with my hands).

Overall I’m just so happy to be here again, spending my days playing in the water, soaking up the sun, feeding the sea turtles, etc … all of which I couldn’t have accomplished without the love and support of my fellow Tybeenians.

I miss ya’ll so much. I will write again once my next adventure ensues.

Mirthfully yours,
Scarlett