Surfer of the Month – July 2010

Tim Malins

by Jackie Richardson; Photos by Joey Wilson

This column is becoming easier as time goes on because the people I ask to be Surfer of the Month write better than me.  The Surfer of the Month is Tim Malins.  Tim owns High Tide Surf Shop along with his family here on Tybee Island.  The store has almost anything you want from clothing, skateboards, surf boards, and stand up paddle boards.  Tim has been very generous to the surf community here at Tybee Island by supporting many local causes.  I think you will find yet another of our Tybee Island surfers has had a very interesting life up to this point.

1)  Where were you born? I was born in Folkstone, England, not far from the beach on the English Channel. You can see France from there on a good clear day.
2)  Where did you grow up and where have you lived? I grew up in Palos Verdes, CA then later Seattle, WA in my teenage years. I had to relearn surfing after living in the Pacific NW, there wasn’t much of a surf scene then, but now surfing is huge there.
3)  When did you start surfing?  What age? I started surfing at 10 years old in CA. I had a paper route and managed to save up enough to buy a board from my neighbors across the street. It was different times then and the crew of kids in my area would spend every summer day at the local beach that was referred to as “rat beach”, surfing and goofing off. Kids now are sent to camps and daycare etc. We were just sent to the beach. It’s too bad little kids can’t really do that now, especially in LA. Once I felt the rush of a board planing on the water, I was hooked. Later we moved to a different part of town and I befriended a kid down the street whose step-dad made ski films. They seemed to always have all kinds of crazy sports equipment around including surfboards & skateboards, so we always had something to ride and that’s when my interest in surfing and skating really took off. It’s kind of funny. I didn’t figure out until much later that my friend’s dad was Warren Miller, the famous action sports filmmaker.
4)  How long have you lived at Tybee? I’ve lived on Tybee off and on 20+ years, I’ve moved and returned, that sort of thing.
5)  Where is your most favorite place to surf? My all time favorite surf spot is Campus Point on Isla Vista Santa Barbara, CA.  I worked for a while in nearby Goleta and could hit this spot at lunch hour when it was firing. I could even check the spot from the roof of the building where I worked. I grew to really love it. Everyone talks about Rincon as the great Santa Barbara surf break, however I prefer Campus Point. I think it’s a more interesting wave, much less crowded, and it breaks more often.
6)  Where have you surfed? I’ve surfed in California, Hawaii, Washington, Mexico, Dominican Republic, and the East Coast from Virginia Beach to South Florida. I really want to surf in Europe sometime.
7)  When did you get into other types of surfing i.e.: wind, paddle, etc.? In 1999, I caught a quick glimpse of Laird Hamilton in a video surfing behind a kite. It was just a flash second or two, but it was enough to make me go “whoa!” I immediately started calling around to find one because I thought it had great potential for tow surfing. The equipment was terrible then and even the manufactures weren’t sure how it all worked. It took me nearly a year and a lot of walking back up Butler Ave to figure out how to go upwind. I stuck with it while my friends and family thought I was crazy, they were probably right because I could have easily killed myself figuring it out. Things are much easier now, the kites are safer and friendlier to use.  Standup paddling I got into about 3 yrs ago. I thought it was a great way to surf with more power when there’s no wind. I found the idea of having to balance and use a paddle challenging, and it’s a great way to stay fit. I’ve never been technically a very good small wave surfer at all, so I’ve always sought out other ways to make it interesting and up the wave count. I’ll always love and respect pure surfing, but other surfing disciplines have forced me to learn a lot of things such as riding switch-foot. Anyway you are having fun making a board plane-up on the water is a good thing to me.
8)  What is your favorite board to surf? I’m not sentimental or nostalgic about surfboards like most surfers are, so my favorite board is the one I find unusual or challenging at the moment. A few weeks ago I was really into the 6’0” Webber Mini-fish, right now I’m obsessed with the Naish 7’9” SUP. It’s a very odd looking board that is going to change the way people think about standup paddle surfing. Next week it may be my foilboard or something else.  While I fully admire the focus of surfers that classify themselves as strictly a “shortboarder” or a “longboarder”, I prefer to ride everything. My heroes are the watermen like Robby Naish, Dave Kalama, and Pete Cabrinha, guys that are proficient at a lot of things.
9)  What is special about surfing at Tybee? Of course, I like surfing with friends, but a side of me likes doing a session alone. For me, there’s something really cool about getting a good ride, and nobody saw it and you don’t talk about it. Tybee is one of the few places you can catch a good solo session. 20+ knots of wind and shoulder-high waves at the north jetty all to myself makes Timmy a very happy boy. Forget about that ever happening in Southern California. Tybee has a lot more potential than what the outside surf community believes.
10) Who do you like to surf with at Tybee? Jere Wilson and Phillip George are always fun to see out. They are good at doing what I’m not, which is riding small boards on small waves, and doing something amazing with it.  Mack Kitchens is one of my favorite friends to kitesurf with, meaning riding waves with a proper surfboard and a kite. We’ve been riding some of the outside sandbars and catching waves that have been neglected on Tybee. Mack is also the one that calls me at 7:00am on a freezing cold winter morning telling me the waves are up and the wind is blowing. It’s ridiculously fun and we’re both mystified that more surfers haven’t got into it. I standup paddle with Stephen Palmer a lot; he’s never conventionally surfed, but got into surfing through standup, which I find interesting. I love how Atsushi Yamada infects the whole lineup with his smile and aloha spirit, and it’s fun to test out some of my very limited Japanese vocabulary with him.  Occasionally I catch a nice session at the north jetty and the only guys out are Jason Buelterman and Jim Stevens, it’s always a pleasure. You have to know when to hit that spot and they seem to be among the few who are wise to it.
11) Best surf trip? Hands down, my favorite surf trip was with a couple of old high school friends to an Indian reservation on the Washington coast called La Push. We camped out for two days and caught some nice glassy un-crowded surf. The spot was later made famous by the Twilight movies, but we went there years ago before it was well known. It’s the polar opposite of surfing on Tybee with cold water and huge trees, rocks, and cliffs. I love that place and hope to visit again.

Personally, after trying to get on a surfboard, note the operative word “trying,” I realize this is hard to do; or I may just be past my prime to do it.  But I will keep trying because, after writing a few years about surfing, it would be nice to realize the love of surfing.

Jackie

Surfer of the Month – June 2010:

“Jeff Mosley”

by Jackie Richardson

Last month, we celebrated Mothers so this month it is only fitting that we celebrate the boys of summer, Fathers. In the surfing community here on Tybee Island, fathers give the rides to the beach, they coach their children, they pay for contests, food, etc.

However some men, before they become fathers, totally dedicate their lives to the surfing community. At Tybee Island, that person is our surfer of the month, Jeff Mosley. In the past eight years that our family has been involved in the GA Eastern Surfing Association, I have seen Jeff mentor young surfers. If there is a need with one of these kids, Jeff makes sure it is taken care of. I have been up and down the east coast at surfing events and when people find out we are from Georgia, they always say to tell Jeff and Tara hello.

For the most part, I write these articles but I think Jeff’s answers to my questions are more fitting in his own words, so here are my questions and Jeff’s answers:

Where were you born? El Paso, Texas

When and where was the first time you surfed? Hurricane David swell. I guess that was 1980 or 1981. Robbie Evans gave me an old single fin Atlantis. A couple of days later I rode one over the falls in front of Robbie and my fin poked a hole in his arm. I bet you he was rethinking that whole free board riding again. No surfing mentors. As a kid I always looked up to my two uncles, Woody Waldhour and Bennie Ward.

Where is your favorite place to surf? I know a lot of you will think I’m crazy for this next answer, but its right here at home. It’s where I feel most comfortable. About every four years, it gets good here and when it does there is nothing better. It’s not all out of control, short paddle out, and you know most everyone in the lineup. Oh and my favorite thing is, you can’t see the sharks swimming under your feet here.

Where have you surfed? Everywhere on the east coast from Delaware to Jupiter Inlet, Hawaii, and Panama City in the Gulf. How long have you and Tara been directors of the GA Eastern Surfing Association and how did you get involved? We have been the directors for fourteen years. Jim Reynolds was the director at that time. He was (and still is) in the Coast Guard and was about to be transferred. He asked me to take over the GA district. I was 30 at the time, and Travis Williams, Montee Coursey, Tara, and I were right in the middle of having “The times of our life.” So I don’t know why Jim was asking us to take on such a serious position as District Director. I mean, I could barely “direct” my check to the bank on Fridays much less be responsible for all of the surfing in Georgia. I told Jim I would think about it. During that six months, (because that is how long it takes me to do anything unfortunately), no one stepped up to become the new District director and Tara kept telling me, “I should do it, that it sounded like it would be fun”, and I was like “Shut up woman and fix me something to eat” (just kidding). I didn’t want to see the contests come to an end because everyone seemed to be having a lot of fun doing them. So I told Jim yes and here we are. The best decision Tara ever made for me up until my little girl was born.

What is special about Tybee Island? The fact it is a small community. Everybody knows everybody. You can rarely ride down the road without waving or honking your horn to a friend or acquaintance.

Who are your favorite surfing buddies? You know, I like surfing with everybody that stays out of my way.

What are the best surfing awards you have received? Tara and I were awarded “The Colin J. Couture” award in 2008. It is the highest award given by the ESA (the largest amateur surfing association in the world) for outstanding volunteerism. It is named after “Doc” Couture the founder of the ESA. You are voted in only by previous “Doc Rock” recipients. We received a nice plaque and our names will forever be on the “Doc Rock” which is located in Buxton, NC at the Natural Art Surf Shop.

What is special about being a father?
To see something that is a part of you start to grow and communicate and have her own personality. It’s truly amazing. In closing, I would like to thank the Mayor of Tybee Island, Jason Buelterman, and The City of Tybee Island for all the support they have shown the ESA over the years, but most of all I would like thank my wife, Tara, for giving me a beautiful little girl and putting up with me for the last fifteen years because without her the Jeff and Tara era of the GA ESA District may not have ever existed. I would also like to thank my boss, Steve Brannen of Brannen Construction for allowing me to take the time off work all these years to go and do the things a district director does. Because without him being supportive of the things I like to do, we would have never made it this far. Last, but not least, I would like to thank my district for having fun and embodying the spirit of competitive surfing the way “Doc” envisioned it forty something years ago.

Surfer of the Month – May 2010: “Surf Moms”

by Jackie Richardson

May is the month we celebrate mothers.  Particularly, in the surfing community these are the women that make sure their children have food to eat at surf contests, carry all the various equipment (boards, chairs, coolers, etc.). Mothers sit in the hot sun, wind, rain, and cold to watch contests.  Mothers are constant cheerleaders for their children.  Mothers wipe away tears of disappointment and celebrate the smiles of victory.  So, the month of May this column is dedicated to these phenomenal Mothers in our ESA Georgia District.

I am so proud of my son, Josh, as he has become a good surfer representing our ESA Georgia District as an Allstar.  During the past month of April, Josh has competed in three contests in Florida.
On the weekend of Easter, Josh competed in the Ron Jon Easter Fest at Cocoa Beach and placed 2nd in the Men’s Longboard.  The following weekend, Josh competed in the National Scholastic Surfing Association East Coast Championship held at Sebastian Inlet, Florida.  Josh won the Southeast/North Conference Longboard Division.  He placed third in the Open and Explorer Longboard Division in the East Coast Championship and earned an invitation to the National Championships to be held in California in June.  Finally, April 24, Josh competed at the Daytona Longboard Classic held at Daytona Beach, FL. This was a pro/am contest.  Josh came in 3rd in the Junior Pro and was awarded a cash prize.  He also competed in the Jr. Men’s division and Open Noserider division walking away with 2nd place in both.

The month of May, he will be competing in the Christian Surfers of Ormond Beach, FL contest and then it is off to the ESA Mid-Atlantic Regional Championships at Virginia Beach, VA.  When he’s in town this summer, you might be able to catch him at Tybee teaching surf lessons.
But know this… his mother is very proud of him.

Surfer of the Month – April 2010

Ben Thompson with Jackie Richardson

As I write this article, St. Patrick’s Day is behind us, Spring Madness is in full swing, and Spring Breaks are getting under way.  All the surfers I come in contact with are searching for some good waves that were not present here during the winter months.

With spring here, the Tybee Island surf season will definitely be in session.  I have had the privilege for the past eight years to meet some of the finest young men and women who surf in our Georgia Eastern Surfing Association district.  I have watched them grow up and move out of our community.  I am always saddened to see them go, but in most cases happy to see them living out their dreams.

This is very true of the April Surfer of the month, Ben Thompson.  First of all, let me say his parents Georgia and Jonny Thompson should be proud of the great job they have done raising Ben.  Ben is a smart, funny, intelligent, and caring individual. In July he will be moving to California to go to school, pursue a career in music, and surf everyday!  Although I am happy for Ben, our whole family will sorely miss him, especially our son, Josh, for whom he has been such a good influence and friend.

Ben was born in Savannah, Georgia in 1989.  He has been surfing for about 10 years.  His dad started him surfing early.  His favorite board is a Webber.  He jokingly says, “My only board…haha.  It gets the job done.”

Ben started surfing on Tybee Island. Then he surfed on a regular basis in Florida.  He has been up and down the east coast, California, Costa Rica, and Puerto Rico surfing.  He says, “My favorite place to surf is this fun little point break in Topanga Beach, California.  It’s a really mellow, fun break and the views from the ocean are pretty amazing.”

I always ask the surfers what is special about surfing at Tybee Island.  Ben answered, “There’s nothing quite like the comfort of surfing your home break.  I love the community, surfing with friends, and when a cat-5 storm rolls through, there are few places I’d rather be.”  His surf buddies are his dad, Atsushi, Josh, Leland, Brad, Austin, Benji, Toby, Gary, Cat, Jere, Randall, Megan, Vaughan……

Last April, a lot of us from Georgia including myself, went to Puerto Rico for the Mid Atlantic Regionals.  Ben said of that trip, “The most fun I’ve had on a surf trip was with the Durtee Militia (Jonny Thompson, Josh Richardson, and Leland Lively) in Puerto Rico.  The waves didn’t stay good the whole time, but we still had a blast and it was an experience that I’ll never forget.”

All of us in the surfing community have watched Ben grow up surfing.  He has been a good competitor every year, always among the top ranked.  This year, however, he won 1st Place in the Men’s division of the Georgia Eastern Surfing Association.  A much deserved award for him.  I asked Ben who has been his mentor and he said, “Dad has definitely been my mentor growing up surfing.  He got me started, taught me everything he knows, and has taken me on trips all over.  But now he’s getting old and I’m schoolin’ him. HA!”

Ben loves being outdoors.  Ben’s other interests besides surfing are music, hiking, kayaking, camping, biking, swimming, fishing, and traveling the world.

As I have said on many occasions in this column, we have many colorful, interesting characters who surf at Tybee Island.  Ben is no exception.  On any Sunday evening during the next few months, you might just catch Ben on the television show, “Ruby,” on Style network.

Surfer of the Month

by Jackie Richardson

Atsushi “Hot Sushi” Yamada

Putting the winter months behind us, it is time to look forward to warmer weather and surfing.  March Madness is here…. basketball and especially the Savannah St. Patrick’s Parade.  You may remember in my previous articles, I said there are a lot of different people who surf.  This surfer of the month isn’t heading to warmer waters to surf, but to Japan to the ski slopes where he is a professional snow skier.

Atsushi Yamada was born in Tokyo, Japan.  His name in Japanese means “mellow.” His nickname is Hot Sushi. He started to surf when he was 17 years of age. Before that he was too busy with alpine racing, skiing and playing soccer to spend much time surfing.  Atsushi’s favorite board is a 9’6” Woody shaped by Jim Stephens, owner of Underground Boardworks.  Atsushi’s favorite people to surf with are his children, Minami and Ichi, and his wife, Michelle.  He loves to surf with his dogs, too.

Although Atsushi has surfed in Japan, Australia, Hawaii, and Guam, in his own words his favorite place to surf is, “My home sweet home beach, The Tybee Island.”  The thing he likes most about surfing at Tybee is that it is a very small surf community where everybody knows everybody and they make Atsushi feel like he is part of a family.  Atsushi also indicated that before he gets too old he would like to charge larger waves like Tahiti.

The surf community always relishes the energy summer brings at Tybee Island.  For us, that energy embellishes who Atsushi is.  He is the most upbeat and happy person I know.  Jeff and Tara Mosley, our ESA-GA directors, call Atsushi “Walking Sunshine!”  I asked him what his secret is to being this way.  He replied, “There are no secrets.  Just being in the presence of Mother Nature all year around makes me happy.  Hear the winds, smell the air, watching birds flying by, dolphins swimming by me and much more.  Mother Nature gives me tons of energy.  Every time I start to paddle or skiing downhill I will be able to feel the power go through my body from the earth.  I will always appreciate mother nature for how lucky I am to do things on this planet.”

Next time you are on the beach at Tybee when you hear excitement and enthusiasm in the air it is probably Atsushi giving someone a welcome.  In our Eastern Surfing Association contests we call him our cheerleader because he is always encouraging and supporting everyone.  He really is the happiest, upbeat person I know.  That is one of the best complements I can give anyone, and Atsushi is very deserving.

Next Page »